Acne Studios Fall-Winter 2026 Menswear

By the Editorial Staff

As Acne Studios marks its 30th anniversary, Creative Director Jonny Johansson turns inward rather than backward. The Fall/Winter 2026 menswear collection does not indulge in nostalgia or overt celebration. Instead, it contemplates the passage of time, what it means to age within fashion while retaining relevance, curiosity, and edge.

Johansson approaches maturity not as decline, but as refinement. The collection balances the brand’s foundational codes, denim, subversive tailoring, textural contrast, with a steadier, more assured hand. Where earlier Acne menswear thrived on irony and youthful provocation, FW26 leans into admiration and continuity.

Tailoring anchors the season. Pinstriped suits are elongated and slightly slouched, suggesting authority without rigidity. Caramel-toned leather trousers and weathered flight jackets introduce tactility and depth. Silhouettes reference 1970s proportions, broader shoulders, relaxed legs, yet feel distinctly contemporary through restrained styling and muted palettes.

Denim, the backbone of Acne Studios’ identity, returns with conceptual subtlety. The straight-leg 1996 silhouette is revived with minimal adjustments, preserving its original geometry while refining fabrication. Trompe-l'œil techniques create collage-like surfaces that mimic photocopied or layered jeans, reinforcing the house’s intellectual playfulness. Rather than reinventing denim entirely, Johansson reframes it, allowing history to evolve rather than repeat.

Leather plays a grounding role across the collection, appearing in trims, structured jackets, and full monochrome looks. The material adds weight and credibility, balancing the softness of mohair knits and washed cotton shirting. Accessories, including structured leather bags and vintage-inspired belts, extend the dialogue between past and present.

What distinguishes this season most is its composure. Acne Studios has long operated between street culture and Scandinavian minimalism; here, those instincts feel consolidated. The collection suggests a masculine wardrobe shaped by lived experience rather than trend cycles. It does not chase youth, it absorbs it.

In Fall/Winter 2026 menswear, Acne Studios proposes that heritage is not static. It shifts, gathers texture, and becomes more compelling with time. Johansson’s reflection on age becomes a broader meditation on fashion itself: growth is not a rupture from the past, but a sharpening of identity.

This article is an original editorial analysis produced by [DIBA magazine]

Research and references are used for contextual accuracy.